issue 9. 6am flight to Paris

Last weekend I was taking a 6am flight to Paris when we had to come back. I can’t tell you about the things I was going to do there, because I’ll come back and they’ll one day be here. But not having new recomendations doesn’t mean I can’t tell you about my OG ones. This is a tour around my personal favorite places in my favorite city, built through the years and filled with stories!

As you know, there are so many museums in Paris you should visit. And, of course, there are the most famous parts: the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre… But the places I would recommend are not necessarily those.

In a city like Paris, you can’t just visit one type of museum. But I think you should always start with art.

The most beautiful museum in the world, in my opinion, is the Musée de l’Orangerie (1st arrondissement). Maybe this has something to do with the fact that my favourite artist has appeared in hundreds of my projects, including my final degree project. I have visited his house and seen pretty much every exhibition about him. Those curved paintings are spectacular. His life was, too.

Next, we need fashion, so let’s head to the Musée Yves Saint Laurent (16th arrondissement). His parents brought him to Paris when he was young, and he wanted to study fashion. His studio remains almost exactly as he left it, with his desk covered in things and a portrait of him watching over everything. I will never forget that one of the interviews he gave during his lifetime plays on a loop in the middle of the museum. In it, he says that his parents could have told him no, but they didn’t. Ils m’ont soutenu — they supported me.

At nineteen, living there myself, I could hear the same words in my head, only this time they were about my own parents.

But we also need to visit the Musée de l’Armée (7th arrondissement). Napoleon’s tomb awaits you in the middle of it, beneath the enormous golden dome of Les Invalides. The building was originally commissioned by Louis XIV as a home for wounded and elderly soldiers, long before it became Napoleon’s final resting place. The tomb itself is quite something: you can only really see it by looking down into it or tilting your head all the way back. The way art is displayed can say much more than we think.

And you should also go for a walk in 59 Rivoli, but only if you dare!

France is a country where it sometimes feels as if you are in several parts of the world at once. You can experience this at the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac (7th arrondissement). Its collections bring together objects from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas, offering a glimpse into cultures that deserve much more attention than they often receive. I remember an exhibition featuring so many different cultures that it felt like seeing a hundred exhibitions in one. The museum is so large that it can afford to bring all these worlds together under one roof. And the building itself, surrounded by greenery, makes the whole experience feel a little removed from the city outside.

But this is Paris, so we have to return to fashion. The Fondation Azzedine Alaïa (4th arrondissement) is incredible. Through a small opening in the wall, you can catch a glimpse of the world of his studio and the objects, garments and materials connected to his work. There is something fascinating about seeing the creative process behind a designer rather than just the finished pieces.

It is a tiny museum, but it is completely worth visiting for its intimate atmosphere alone. Anyone reading this who has absolutely no interest in museums must be wondering what on earth is wrong with me by now.

If you have one more day, visit Van Gogh’s last home in Auvers-sur-Oise and Monet’s house in Giverny, both outside Paris. You will need almost a whole day, but it is worth it.

You can visit the tiny room where Van Gogh spent his last 70 days. There is something strangely moving about seeing the place where an artist’s life came to an end, especially when you have spent so much time looking at his paintings. Monet’s house, on the other hand, is a perfect jungle, with paintings hanging on almost every wall.

And since you have had an exhausting day, you need to stop somewhere for dinner and find yourself a Bouillon. If it is Bouillon Julien (10th arrondissement), even better. Order French onion soup to start, followed by one of the meat dishes. The desserts are good, too. And the wine! Everything is so affordable that the place fills up quickly, so make sure you have a reservation.

If you haven’t managed to get in, first of all, I’m sorry for you. Secondly, find another place that looks promising and order the same soup. You might think it will be a tiny bowl, but they do not mess around when it comes to soup. Thank God for that.

I recommend The Family in Montmartre (18th arrondissement). They charged my phone and gave me a dessert for free! The French onion soup was incredible, look:

If you are luckier than I am, you will manage to get a ticket for the Galerie Dior (8th arrondissement). Despite having spent months living in Paris and having returned several times, I have NEVER managed to find a day when the museum is open and I have no other plans. Even last weekend, when I ended up stranded after my flight was cancelled, I missed my chance once again.

But I refuse to give up!

I’ll tell you about vintage shops another day at Le Marais! My Erasmus friends and I walked those streets millions if times!! I wish we had more money back then, we found so many special clothes but none of them made it home lol

For dinner, head to The Brooklyn Pizzeria (3rd arrondissement) and order a Margherita pizza with rosé wine. Get the charcuterie and cheese board, too, and finish with a giant profiterole. It is the prettiest pizzeria in Paris. Its lights and terrace live rent-free in my head. Or go to La Felicità (13th arrondissement)! The party afterwards is pretty great, too.

In Paris, there are only two ways to get home. One is, obviously, by metro. The other is to walk, letting the wind hit your face as you make your way through the city. But there is one thing I recommend everyone do at least once in their life. It will not be the cheapest option, but it will be unforgettable: take a taxi. I have this habit of telling everyone to use one of their nights away to take a ride back to their accommodation this way. It is not a posh recommendation. It is simply extraordinary to see a city at night, moving through its streets without having to drive yourself.

You have to roll the windows down, of course. If it rains, even better. And if you happen to pass the Eiffel Tower, then it is perfect.

Maybe, you can even find yourself there!